end of July (revised)

Cyndi, Ariel, the boys, and I drove up to Santa Fe on Sunday and had dinner with Jean, my cousin, and her husband Warren at La Boca. It was Spanish Market in Santa Fe, so we strolled the plaza area, viewing the retablos and other art, and had obligatory stops at J. Crew and the Plaza Bakery (for ice cream), but we missed Toyopolis, which made the boys very unhappy. We shared some good wine at La Boca, tapas, and even tried their paella. It was good to see Jean and Warren and we caught up a bit on family.

Jackson is planning a "science experiment" birthday party, and so we've arranged to go to the Explora Museum. This helps to dissuade him from thinking he'll get a Wii for his birthday. I don't want to get one, especially for his birthday. Meanwhile, Rylee is already making Christmas lists, because he's decided he wants his own set of Thomas the Train toys. He found a little product booklet and carries it around all the time.

Ariel is here for a month before she takes off, and we hope to go camping with her some weekend, probably the one after the coming one. She found out that she received a grant that will help out. She was especially pleased as it was a very prestigious one.

We noticed the vacation may have matured the boys, especially Ry. He's very enthusiastic about explaining things. They are both attending another vacation bible school this week and talk about the songs they are both learning. ("Son Rock Kid's Camp.") They took another private swim lesson from a young guy who works at the club, Jordan, and there is a noticeable improvement in skills and confidence in both. They've taken about three of these lessons, spread out over the summer, and one more may really make a swimmer of Jack and allow Ry to play in the water safely. Ry learns the physical things fast, and I can see rudimentary swimming skills already. Jack is so close.

Kauai: next (revised)

I'm have added more pictures and narrative about our trip to Kauai on a journal page.

It was a great trip, and we want to return with Ariel next time to see some of the places we loved and some of the places we missed. We have to return to swim in Queen Emma's Bath, to hear a slack key guitar, and to grill on the beach at sunset. Queen Emma's Bath, as well as some other Princeville Beaches we didn't visit, was close to us but I was a little concerned about the climb down this time. Once you are on the island, it's easy to find posters of concerts and even local luaus. Listening to KKCR online before leaving would also help to learn about goings on. (Their site has a couple of calendars, too.) I really wanted to go to Black Pot Beach just before sunset with a grill, some ono or opah, some hotdogs and buns, and a thermos of maitais, but by the evening we were exhausted and stayed on our lanai watching the sunset reflected in the pink clouds or walking over to a vista at The Cliffs to see the sunset, while the boys rolled on the grassy hill behind our place, playing with other children.

When the boys are old enough, a sailing trip to Na Pali, with sidetrips to snorkeling beaches, may be right. There was an easy trail at Nounou (Sleeping Giant) Mountain that we still could do, or some other trails and excursions near that mountain and the Wailua River Valley, which we barely glimpsed. There's a bike trail to tour Kapa'a and beaches north. We would probably skip Po'ipu next time and go further west, exploring Waiamea and other towns and beaches, or keep going to the Mana coastal plains and the Barking Sands and Polihale beaches. We also intended to golf at Kukuoilono, a 9-hole course that costs about $9 for the day. That's also on the other side of the island. There's another area I've heard about south of Lihue, with Mahaulepu Beach, and more beaches near Anahola, above Kapa'a. The boys would be ready for some real boogie boarding and surfing. Several places in Hanalei offered lessons.

We had a fantastic opportunity to stay in Princeville at a friend's place, for which we are very grateful. I liked the Princeville and Hanalei area, and I would make that area the base for any return. One could also, with some planning for equipment to bring or rent and the necessary permits, stay cheaply by camping at the many beaches or backpacking in the interior. There are inexpensive cabins in Koke'e. It might be good still to rent a car (for which you pay a premium on the islands) and begin and end the stay at some nice resort. I can see us doing that, too. There's even a trail that traverses (north/south) the entire island. [Edit: this may not be true. I was thinking the Powerline Trail ran north and south, but now I think it really lops off only the northeastern corner of the island. Still sounds like a good hike, though.]

I heard on KKCR a few days after our return that the island had severe thunder showers and storms and the water rose so high that the bridge to Hanalei was closed for a day. Imagine the waterfalls that day.

Aloha.

Kauai: home

We're home. It's Sunday at 2. Or is it 10?

Saturday morning we ate a big breakfast, cleaned up, swam in the pool, and said goodbye. On the way to Lihue, we stopped at a roadside burger stand. We did a quick tour of the Kauai Museum in Lihue. After several hours at the airport, we left Saturday night but it was already Sunday morning in New Mexico. Tough way to go home.

Here's the bridge to Hanalei.

Kauai: Ke'e & Kalalau Trail

We left early for Ke'e Beach at the end of the road and got a parking space next to the showers and the trailhead. Found a shady spot on the beach. The few that were there were either beginning their hike or snorkeling above the reef. If you walked down the beach, you could get a peek at the Na Pali coast. I took a jog, and Cyndi took several walks. As the morning progressed, a crowd showed up. We spent most of the day there but hiked a bit before we left.








On the trail toward Na Pali, a small, windy overlook about a mile in. A very steep ascent. Thankfully the weather couldn't be more perfect, so the trail was not slippery and muddy.





We picked up some juice and smoothies at Aloha juice stand and some produce at Papaya's organic market, in Hanalei, and now we are appreciating the last our maitais. Cyndi's got some local sweet potatoes, salad and mango salsa, and I'll cook the opah. Some of our pineapples on the kitchen sill.



Tomorrow is the last day. Our plane leaves in the evening.

Kauai: kayak

Time only to post pics, but some narrative so you know what you are looking at:

Scrambled eggs, bagels, cereal, Kauai coffee, and pineapple for breakfast. Went by Grindz at the gas station (looks promising, but only breakfast, burgers & pizza), but ended up picking up turkey croissants and fresh juice at Foodlane on the way to Hanalei. Sandwiches and juice went into a soft cooler latched onto a triple kayak and we paddled up the Hanalei River under the one-lane bridge and through the valley nature or agricultural preserve. Had to get Wishing Well shave ice afterward and got some shirts, sunglasses and crystals in Hanalei. A gallery in Princeville had an aerial photograph of Hanalei Bay. Pooltime with the boys. A late restorative yoga class, then sushi and sake at Hanalei Dolphin.

Kauai: South Coast

A morning run while the boys ate cereal and pineapple, then a swim with the boys in the pool with one of their new friends. So a late start for the South Coast. On the way, we picked up some cinnamon raisin bagels, frozen fruit frosties, and white pineapple.

Po'ipu is the home of several resorts, notably the Grand Hyatt. (Donna and Randy married here, and Cyndi made sure to visit the place of their vows.) We had a nice lunch there on a terrace, and Cyndi found some sandals.

Po'ipu would be the place to go if there was too much rain or waves on the north coast. As it turns out, we have had very good weather on the north coast. Good trade winds are keeping the temperatures in the seventies and maybe a touch into the low 80s. Cool at night. We've been caught in two strong downpours but usually the intermittent rain falls in short sunshowers.

Po'ipu Beach is small, but nicely protected for keikis and easy snorkeling. The highlight of our visit was crossing to the little sand island and watching three giant sea turtles crawl out of the ocean.

I had to get another shave ice. On the way home, we also stopped at waterfall.

More pineapple today. We opened a bottle of wine for a change.

Kauai: staying home

The sun just sank.

We are eating hot dogs and caesar salad with last night's remaining opah. Maitais, of course, and another pineapple, of course. Hannah Montana is on. Ry wants to play outside.

Lots of pictures, and lots of stories. All in all, we just hung out in Hanalei.

After a run, Cyndi went to her "yoga retreat."
Here's some places around town and our PT Cruiser.

The boys and I went to our "second Hanalei Beach."

We found a dress for Cyndi, and came back for it at the end of the day. We checked out the kayak place and ate along the river at Hanalei Dolphin, a wonderful place before a tsuanami knocked a beer into Cyndi's phone. Great opah sandwiches and draft beer. The boys went into the freezer to view the catch of the day, and we visited the fish market, the best I've seen here.


We went by the farmer's market before heading towards Tunnels Beach.

We parked at Ha'ena Beach Park and walked down to Tunnels, a great spot for snorkeling and, beyond the reef, kite surfing. About a half-mile trek that way, but then you don't have to deal with the private road and no parking signs.

Kauai: Waimea Canyon & Koke'e

This will be by far our longest drive on the island: 71 miles one-way around the island to the south coast, then up the Waimea Canyon to the end of the road. In the canyon, we stopped at three overlooks. At the second, we bought fresh pineapple slices, roasted coconut, and dried mangoes from a little stand. At Koke'e we visited the museum and a great bookstore, where Jack and I bought a book on the geological history of Kauai. Then at the end of the road, we took the Pihea Trail from the trailhead. We went for a mile, until it got very muddy and slippery, just before the swamp. Along the trail, there were marvelous views of the Kalalau Valley down to the Na Pali Coast, over 4,000 feet below. The weather was spectacular and clear. The boys were tough. It was rated a moderate trail, with lots of hills. Ry and I talked about stuff and sang songs to get us back up the steep hills. Afterward we stopped at the Koke'e Lodge: Hawaiian ales, Portugese sausage and bean soup, sweet & moist cornbread, quiche, hot dog and grilled cheese. On the way home, we stopped to buy two more pineapples (we're going through a pineapple per day), some opah and ono. Tomorrow: yoga, some beach, the local market. Staying close to home. Time to cook some ono, cut some pineapple, and make another mai tai, before a night swim. We will all sleep well tonight.

Kauai: East Coast

Okay. First, a run. And Kauai coffee. Rain, of course. The boys ate cereal and finished off another pineapple. Mass at an open air church in Hanalei, mostly filled with visitors. The priest told a good joke about two boys. A stop at Java Kai for coffee and a waffle...and a really crazy mix of flavors and ice cream for Jack's shave ice.



We met Emily at Lydgate. The boys swam in the pools and we took a walk down the beach.





We had lunch at Bubba's in Kapa'a. ("We cheat tourists, drunks, and attorneys.") After we said goodbye to Emily, we drove into the interior a bit, saw a waterfall, a valley, and the royal birthstone. Going back home, we stopped at Maloaa fruit stand for yet another pineapple, a banana, a papaya, an onion, and an avocado, each perfectly ripe. Oh, and we picked up some opah at the market. We arrived home, and after a couple of our mai tais on the lania, with chips and guacamole, we broiled the opah with butter, onion, lemon, pepper and the grated coconut, while the pink of the sunset reflected in the overhead clouds. The boys and I went for a night swim in the rain, and that was about that.

Kauai: evening

Poolside.




Princeville resort.
Open air mai tais, coconut shrimp, poke, hamburger & fries.




Evening on the beach.

Kauai: buggie boards

While Cyndi was at her yoga, the boys and I got Ry his Longboard Bucanneers tshirt, had another shave ice over ice cream, and went to a second spot on Hanalei Bay.



We picked up Cyndi, bought a pineapple to cut later, and went for Ono (fish, wahoo or mackeral) tacos and burritos (and quesidillas and really good lemonade) before going to another spot on Hanalei Bay Beach. The rain came and didn't seem to want to stop right away.

Oh, and here's a pic Ry took this morning.



[Update: This is a popular blog post, partly I think because I wrote "buggie boards," which is how Ry pronounced boogie boards. There's lots more about our trip. You should try this link.]

Kauai: chickens

We ate some scrambled eggs.



I went for a run early again; tried a new route. Missed the morning downpour, which just arrived. It'll be gone in just a few minutes.

Cyndi has a yoga class this morning. The boys and I will likely go to the beach. Midmorning may be the nicest part of the day.

Ry is playing with his surfer car. Jack and Cyndi were playing Set when I got back from the run. Now Jack is playing Professor Layton on his DS. We just discussed how all radii of circles are the same distance, so he could answer a puzzle. On the plane, he turned on his DS and was able to chat with another kid with a DS on the plane several rows ahead. They didn't actually meet until we exited the plane.

Oh, got to tell you about the chickens. Fascinating array of birds, and wonderful to hear in the morning. See? Mira. The sun's already out again.

Kauai: Kilauea

After Cyndi and I ran our runs, we went to Anini Beach.



We had bagels, cheese pizza slices, and espressos and lattes at a bakery and pizza place in Kilauea. We drove up to the lighthouse and bird preservation, and then stopped again in Kilauea at the fish market for fish wraps and a keiki box of teriyaki chicken, rice, and carrots for the boys.

Pool time, mai tais on the lanai, slowing down.

Kauai: on the run

We got up early again this morning, and I took a run down to the golf course. There's a pedestrian path between the road and the cart path. It began to rain on me, but it lasted only a moment. As I ran along the main road, I noticed no. 6 went out to a point on the cliffs. As I said, the course is being renovated and no one was about, so I ran along the cart path. Beautiful homes lined the fairway. The tee box for no. 7 was spectacular. I think I saw Queen Emma's bath below, Ha'ena point in the distance, and of course the mountains, shrouded in clouds.

Kauai: orientation

We spent the day orientating ourselves. It started early, before the sun came up. We made Kauai coffee. Ry was up early, ate a bowl of cereal, and he and I walked around the area and visited the pool. We found a couple of potential paths down the bluff, but I'm pretty sure these are not the ones to take us to the couple of good beaches below and the pool carved out in the lava.

We wanted to get a sense of the area. Jack was obsessed with coconuts, while Ry wanted to see how a pineapple grew.

We drove to Hanalei, still early. Hanalei is a very nice village. It reminded me of Corrales, a small oasis of pleasant shops and informal but tasty restaurants along a remote, rural road, with some of the shopping elements of Santa Fe and Sedona, but with more humidity and a beach. It didn't feel over commercialized, and, yes, there were many tourists, but it never felt touristy. I think this may because many of the people here are long-time tourists, almost part-time residents, and make this their home while they are here.

Jack and I visited a shop, where he wanted to buy Cyndi some "real jewelry", while Cyndi was across the street, scoping out a yoga center for possible morning classes. We visited one store, Hot Rockets, where Ry chose a radical surfing tshirt, and we'll probably go back for it in a few days. There were also shops for surfing and kayaking. We ended up back across the street, first at an organic market where we bought a pineapple, a coconut and a mango (and Cyndi found a perfume oil), and then at Java Kai for coffee, a smoothie, pastries and a breakfast burrito, Kauai-style. We struck up a conversation with an older man as we ate on a picnic table near the road. I'm sure he must be retired and he and his wife lived here three months out of each year; he joked that he got up early every day, did his four-mile walk, and talking to us this morning was the highlight of this day. He was the second person to recommend a "luau" out in Ha'ena at the Mediterranean Gourmet. Someone's toddler also hung out with us.

We backtracked to the end of the road that follows along Hanalei Bay to where it meets the river. And there, still early in the day, we walked on our first beach in Kauai.



We walked under the pier and the better part of a mile, and as we walked the boys played in the waves. They were wild with glee and soaked. The sun came out. There were a few others along the long beach, two or maybe three getting their first surfing lessons in very gentle waves. Sailboats were moored out in the bay. Mountains backdropped the sand and pines.

Back at the car, the boys changed their wet pants. The car is now full of sand. Thankfully, I suppose, midsize rental cars in Kauai are mostly PT Cruisers, which oddly feel right, looking very similar to the classic surfer woody car. A very simple little car, reminds me of a VW in handling, a hatchback. We figure about one in five cars on the road from the airport was a PT Cruiser--either they are popular here or there are a lot of tourists driving them around.

We drove towards the end of the road. We found the Mediterranean Gourmet at the Hanalei Colony Resort and continued along the road, over maybe five more one-lane bridges. I looked for places to turn out for Tunnels Beach. It didn't look promising. We did stop at Haena Beach Park. The swimming didn't look good there but you could see Tunnels, about a half-mile down the sand, and I started talking to a lifeguard who pointed out a flag that marked Tunnels for the guards. I also talked to him about cooking out on the beach at evening time.

There was a little stand there, selling fruit and shave ice. I saw a man next to a pick-up truck, and it looked to me like there were coconuts in its bed. There was no sign he was selling the coconuts but I asked him if he was.




He husked it, opened the top and stuck a straw in it. Not surprisingly, the boys weren't turned on by the liquid. Then he broke the nut into halves, cut the meat out, wrapped it, and gave us the meat and the shells. They were fresh coconuts. It cost so little.

Across the street was a dry cave, which sheltered us from a light rain. It rained on and off all day.

Finally, at the end of the road we found the trailhead to the Na Pali and Ke'e Beach. We didn't stop, but it helped to see it for when we do come. It was very crowded there, more so than I imagined.

Going out we toured Princeville a bit. Found the trails for the beaches below the resort, but the resort is totally closed for renovation and it looked like much of the golf course was also being redesigned. In the morning, there were many joggers and strollers along the paths around the golf course. Coming back, we stopped at the Princeville Shopping Center, found the hardware store (scoping out beach and grilling supplies; Jack found a flashlight he liked), the toy store (where Ry eventually got a surfer woody car with a surfboard on top), and a few other shops before stocking up on some groceries there at a supermarket. I applied for a Mailka'i card, which saved a bunch over the tourist prices, and we also bought some sand toys, detergent, toilet paper, and mostly food for breakfast.

Back "home", we had a little lunch. The boys and I went swimming at the pool,and after showers and mai tais on the linai, we went back in to Hanalei. The winding road already seemed more familiar, and in the distance you could see waterfalls cascading down the mountains. We ended up at Bar Acuda, a tapas place of some renown, where Ry napped and Jack played with his new, very high-tech flashlight. Cyndi and I had a couple of tapas, one with mahi mahi, and Kona ales. The place began to fill up as we prepared to leave with the tired boys. Cyndi checked out the yoga schedule again, and Ry, who woke up in my arms, and I went to get shave ice. It was served over pineapple and coconut ice cream and passion fruit and coconut syrups were poured over the shave ice. Before leaving, we found a very nice clothing boutique.

Back home, Jack asked and I cut the pineapple and grated some of the coconut. Yum.